Booster Heater Refurb Question....

[JohnR]

OK. After I ran Vag-com for the first time the other day, there were 2 "glowplug open circuit" errors from the booster heater. I cleared the faults.

 

This morning, I forced the thermo-switch with a freezer spray (after eventually finding where it was from the TIS!! no...its not anywhere near the wipers on a MK2, its down next to the passenger-side front fog lamp!). Its not easy to get at to disconnect and short out with a fuse as on other models. However, it is dead easy to force it with a can of freezer spray through the hole in the bumper. A quick squirt and you should see the temperatures on your instrument panel and climatron diving. Mine quickly went down to -25.5 degrees, which I reckoned ought to fool it!!

 

I then fired up the engine and listened by the booster. Absolutely nothing at all, no noises, white smoke or anything. I went back into Vag-com and had 5 of the "glowplug open circuit" errors.

 

Now the question is, is this the expected behaviour, or should I have expected to hear the pump going or something while it was trying? If its just the plug then I'll fix it. If its something else (mores dosh!) I won't bother.

 

Oh and BTW, I called into the local VW dealers.....they wanted 51.73 for the plug as well but did not have one and could not tell me whether or not it had a trailing lead! I'm still watching the other thread to see if Gooner can get the new P/N....and then if Martin can buy a bucketload and flog em cheap on ebay!

 

 

John

[Dave-G]

Wrong sensor my ansome...

 

It IS near the wipers... look for it in front of the pollen filter. It it is held in a plastic clip below the ventilating air-intake grill

[NikpV]

on the 'glowplug open circuit error' the connector for the glowplug carries both the earth and the +ve feed and if it at all loose you will get this error, I bought a glowplug (upgraded 340) since the master mechanic at our local ford dealer said we had this error (read as a favour whilst carrying out other work) when I can to change the plug it was clear that the heater had NEVER run the glowplug connectio was loose. It may be worth trying to check the connection since you have had more open circuit dtc's reported.

[JohnR]

Wrong sensor my ansome...

 

It IS near the wipers... look for it in front of the pollen filter. It it is held in a plastic clip below the ventilating air-intake grill

 

 

According to the TIS, after may 2002 it is N289 which is where I said!

 

on the 'glowplug open circuit error' the connector for the glowplug carries both the earth and the +ve feed and if it at all loose you will get this error, I bought a glowplug (upgraded 340) since the master mechanic at our local ford dealer said we had this error (read as a favour whilst carrying out other work) when I can to change the plug it was clear that the heater had NEVER run the glowplug connectio was loose. It may be worth trying to check the connection since you have had more open circuit dtc's reported.

 

Thanks, will check it tomorrow.

[Dave-G]

Sorry John, I was referring to this bit of your post: "This morning, I forced the thermo-switch with a freezer spray (after eventually finding where it was from the TIS!! no...its not anywhere near the wipers on a MK2"

 

My gal is a mk2. Dec 01 build and it's there on mine. I have no info about the MK2-MK2's :lol:

[mumof4]

Aye..thre are early MKIIs (which mine is as jan 01)..and there are later MKIIs..

[NikpV]

no there are late mk2's mk's and mechanic trainers :lol: :lol: oops :25: :D

[Smilge]

I think you'll find there are late Mk1's which are the early Mk 2's and the early Mk2's preceding the later Mk2's were in fact the prefacelifted Mk2's......so there! :ph34r:

[NikpV]

and even within that some components were installed in the mk2 which were end of line mk1's e,g parts of the instrument cluster were in transistion for months (we know we had one)

[JohnR]

Planning to drop the booster heater off this w/e. I've read the post about swapping the glowplug under the car, but would rather do the job on the bench and give it a good clean up at the same time. If I drop the unit down, hanging on the cooling pipes then are the pipes soft enough to clamp off with 2 pairs of mole grips?? If not, then if the back of the Gal is on ramps can I disconnect quickly and plug the pipes? Is a 15mm copper stop end the right size? Anyone know? Seems a shame to dump the entire coolant system as per the TIS.

 

John

[Dave-G]

IIRC, there is a small section of rubber hose that COULD be clamped, but I would'nt personally risk an air lock. It's also extremely quick to strip the respective parts while its connected and resting on a block. The entire job took me less than 40 minutes, thats with coming in several times to look at the guidance pictures on this forum.

[JohnR]

OK, I got a new glowplug after getting glowplug o/c errors and no heat. I swapped it out under the car last night with the aid of a lead light (which was just a bit too short so couldn't quite see what I was doing!). Anyway, I got the thing back together again.

 

Just came in to work, plugged the laptop into it, cleared the fault codes and.....wehey....a whistling noise and the exhaust gets hot!!! I haven't taken it out for a spin yet, but I just plugged the laptop back in and checked the fault codes again. No o/c errors now, but I get a temperature sensor - signal too high???? Does this mean a duff temp probe in the heater? If so, where abouts is it (didn't see one) and is it then a dump coolant and on the bench job??? I suppose it could just be a duff connection....that particular fault was not there before. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

John

[NikpV]

OK, I got a new glowplug after getting glowplug o/c errors and no heat. I swapped it out under the car last night with the aid of a lead light (which was just a bit too short so couldn't quite see what I was doing!). Anyway, I got the thing back together again.

 

Just came in to work, plugged the laptop into it, cleared the fault codes and.....wehey....a whistling noise and the exhaust gets hot!!! I haven't taken it out for a spin yet, but I just plugged the laptop back in and checked the fault codes again. No o/c errors now, but I get a temperature sensor - signal too high???? Does this mean a duff temp probe in the heater? If so, where abouts is it (didn't see one) and is it then a dump coolant and on the bench job??? I suppose it could just be a duff connection....that particular fault was not there before. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

John

 

 

There is a temperature sensor in the heater - all my diagrams are at home though :( - will post a pic tonight if nobody else has :)

[JohnR]

OK, I got a new glowplug after getting glowplug o/c errors and no heat. I swapped it out under the car last night with the aid of a lead light (which was just a bit too short so couldn't quite see what I was doing!). Anyway, I got the thing back together again.

 

Just came in to work, plugged the laptop into it, cleared the fault codes and.....wehey....a whistling noise and the exhaust gets hot!!! I haven't taken it out for a spin yet, but I just plugged the laptop back in and checked the fault codes again. No o/c errors now, but I get a temperature sensor - signal too high???? Does this mean a duff temp probe in the heater? If so, where abouts is it (didn't see one) and is it then a dump coolant and on the bench job??? I suppose it could just be a duff connection....that particular fault was not there before. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

John

 

 

There is a temperature sensor in the heater - all my diagrams are at home though :( - will post a pic tonight if nobody else has :)

 

Ahhh....bliss....nicely toasted tootsies! I can only think that the temp sensor - signal high message is not really a fault code, but indicative of normal operation?? Or perhaps just a spurious phantom error. In any case, I just had to go home (10 miles) to let in a cooker engineer, and the Gal was up to 90 degrees in about 2 minutes flat!

 

Great job,

 

John

[raymac]

Nice job John ;) what tools did you need to do the job as i am going to have a go at mine tomorrow and would like to have all tools around me before i start , Thanks in advance Raymac :D

[Wasphouse]

Here is Ivor' pictorial version - it's better by far than the Haynes Manual!!

 

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...indpost&p=33255

[NikpV]

Do a search - there is a post by Ivor that gives blow by blow account with colour pictures - When I did mine last year it really helped a lot.

 

I don't think you need any special tools just Phillips screwdriver maybe some torx bits and a lot of WD40 on the screws. I clamped off the water pipes but unles you are removing the whole thing you don't need to do that.

 

Anyway find Ivor's post and that should help.

 

 

dunno about a serch but the first item on the faq is the one

 

doing aux heater

[Wasphouse]

Didn't think of that! Anyway I put the link in an edited post - but you beat me to it!

[JohnR]

Do a search - there is a post by Ivor that gives blow by blow account with colour pictures - When I did mine last year it really helped a lot.

 

I don't think you need any special tools just Phillips screwdriver maybe some torx bits and a lot of WD40 on the screws. I clamped off the water pipes but unles you are removing the whole thing you don't need to do that.

 

Anyway find Ivor's post and that should help.

 

 

dunno about a serch but the first item on the faq is the one

 

doing aux heater

 

 

OK. From memory, you need:-

T20 and T25 Torx bits

10mm and 7mm socket and extension

12mm socket or ring spanner

small adjustable or 5mm (or is it 5.5mm) for connection to glowplug.

wire brush to remove dirt before opening

6mm flat blade screwdriver (for jubilee clip)

Also, If I was doing it again I would have a pair of toolmakers clamps to clamp off the water pipes and do the job on the bench.

Other than that, WD40, a ramp and a piece of carpet to lie on.

 

And of course a Vag-com system to reset the fault codes and get it going afterwards.

 

John

[NikpV]

Do a search - there is a post by Ivor that gives blow by blow account with colour pictures - When I did mine last year it really helped a lot.

 

I don't think you need any special tools just Phillips screwdriver maybe some torx bits and a lot of WD40 on the screws. I clamped off the water pipes but unles you are removing the whole thing you don't need to do that.

 

Anyway find Ivor's post and that should help.

 

 

dunno about a serch but the first item on the faq is the one

 

doing aux heater

 

 

 

And of course a Vag-com system to reset the fault codes and get it going afterwards.

 

John

 

only needed for certain fault codes though

[JohnR]

Do a search - there is a post by Ivor that gives blow by blow account with colour pictures - When I did mine last year it really helped a lot.

 

I don't think you need any special tools just Phillips screwdriver maybe some torx bits and a lot of WD40 on the screws. I clamped off the water pipes but unles you are removing the whole thing you don't need to do that.

 

Anyway find Ivor's post and that should help.

 

 

dunno about a serch but the first item on the faq is the one

 

doing aux heater

 

 

 

And of course a Vag-com system to reset the fault codes and get it going afterwards.

 

John

 

only needed for certain fault codes though

 

If its a mk2, then if the problem is reported as glowplug o/c, and you have the full complement (5 attempts) then you'll have to clear them to make it go. Not got experience of others. For anyone without Vag-com, I THINK they can be cleared with an ECU reset though (power down) can't they?

[NikpV]

Do a search - there is a post by Ivor that gives blow by blow account with colour pictures - When I did mine last year it really helped a lot.

 

I don't think you need any special tools just Phillips screwdriver maybe some torx bits and a lot of WD40 on the screws. I clamped off the water pipes but unles you are removing the whole thing you don't need to do that.

 

Anyway find Ivor's post and that should help.

 

 

dunno about a serch but the first item on the faq is the one

 

doing aux heater

 

 

 

And of course a Vag-com system to reset the fault codes and get it going afterwards.

 

John

 

only needed for certain fault codes though

 

If its a mk2, then if the problem is reported as glowplug o/c, and you have the full complement (5 attempts) then you'll have to clear them to make it go. Not got experience of others. For anyone without Vag-com, I THINK they can be cleared with an ECU reset though (power down) can't they?

 

 

certaibly on ours we DIDN'T need to clear the glowplug o/c dtc - worked straight after changing the plug :lol:

 

 

 

 

OK, I got a new glowplug after getting glowplug o/c errors and no heat. I swapped it out under the car last night with the aid of a lead light (which was just a bit too short so couldn't quite see what I was doing!). Anyway, I got the thing back together again.

 

Just came in to work, plugged the laptop into it, cleared the fault codes and.....wehey....a whistling noise and the exhaust gets hot!!! I haven't taken it out for a spin yet, but I just plugged the laptop back in and checked the fault codes again. No o/c errors now, but I get a temperature sensor - signal too high???? Does this mean a duff temp probe in the heater? If so, where abouts is it (didn't see one) and is it then a dump coolant and on the bench job??? I suppose it could just be a duff connection....that particular fault was not there before. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

John

 

 

 

 

There is a temperature sensor in the heater - all my diagrams are at home though :lol: - will post a pic tonight if nobody else has :blink:

 

Ahhh....bliss....nicely toasted tootsies! I can only think that the temp sensor - signal high message is not really a fault code, but indicative of normal operation?? Or perhaps just a spurious phantom error. In any case, I just had to go home (10 miles) to let in a cooker engineer, and the Gal was up to 90 degrees in about 2 minutes flat!

 

Great job,

 

John

 

 

2 - flame sensor 5 - temp sensor 6 - overheating sensor

 

 

12 - temp sensor 13 - overheating sensor

 

[JohnR]

2 - flame sensor 5 - temp sensor 6 - overheating sensor

 

 

12 - temp sensor 13 - overheating sensor

 

 

Thanks. Mine all seems sorted now. Next time though (hopefully it'll last another couple of winters!) I'll do a strip on the bench and refurb it properly!

 

John

[Jaroth]

Can anyone tell me if this heater is made by eberspacher,and if so what model is it?

[NikpV]

oh b*m I was hoping you'd be able to tell us :rolleyes:

 

checking elsawin - various models used D3W, D5W -Z, D5W-S, B5W-S, D4W change over date about 06/00